Category Archives: Travel

Trip to Venice

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A while back, I promised an update on our trip to Venice. The truth is: I travel a lot and find myself rarely impressed with new cities. Its not that I don’t love visiting place, wandering through the corners of unknown places, breathing in the difference and the similarities,  and sampling the cuisine. But, most places, in this cosmopolitan world, don’t feel THAT different from other things I have seen before. Admittedly, it is fun seeing new places through the eyes of my husband and daughter, However, nothing leaves me speechless anymore. Except Venice did.

I think Venice did because it was fundamentally different that other places I have been.  The canals, taxi boats, and picture perfect touristy gondolas, spoke to me.  What the city touristy?  Yes.  Did we do lots of tourist things?  No.  We had a toddler.  We wandered.  We stopped for coffee and gelato.  We got ourselves lost.  We unlost ourselves.  We boat tall rain boots.  We giggled as we had to push our way around the city on raised walkways.  I admit, living in Venice would be hard and annoying; however, visiting for a few days and seeing the splendor of this sinking city was wonderful.  And, I walked around in awe of all the beauty and joy as my daughter learned the word “AGUA” and got to use it often.  Rain = agua.  Canals = agua.  Floors = agua.  Water at the coffee shops = agua.

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Loved the little canals where you could see real people living.

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Loved Venice at night with all the lights reflecting in the water.

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Love the paintings on the walls and was incredibly impressed at how much work it must take to maintain in this damp climate.

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Loved how everyone had their own boat.

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Loved the food.

 

Loved turning a corner just to be met with a water dead-end.

Loved turning a corner just to be met with a water dead-end.

Tirana’s Cablecar

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Mom and Dad in the cable car--- don't they look calm?

Mom and Dad in the cable car— don’t they look calm?

My mother loves to tell the story of riding in the Cablecar over Cerro San Cristobal in Chile in 1996, how my father and I bruised her hand and arm by holding on so hard.  How she tried and tried to explain to us that she had no magical powers and if the cable line broke, our holding on to her would not save us.  We both remember how she rocked the car making the fear all the stronger, like our grips!

That said, I blame my Grandmother who passed her irrational fear of heights to my father.  He then passed his irrational fear of heights to me. Thanks Dad!

The view from the bottom of the Cable car

The view from the bottom of the Cable car

I am trying not to pass my irrational fear of heights to Little Elephant, so we all took her up the cable car in Tirana, the Mt. Dajti Express.  In 15 minutes, this Austrian built cable car took us 1230 feet above sea level and about 2/3 of the way up the mountain.   The view is spectacular.  At the top, there is a very nice restaurant (we had pizza, pasta, and salad), a hotel, a play ground for kids, and some bunkers. For $7.00 USD roundtrip, it was quite a nice day.

The view from the top (and through a window-- sorry, should have gotten a better shot)

The view from the top (and through a window– sorry, should have gotten a better shot)

More on the bunkers another day.

Apple festival

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I spent the weekend in Korca, on the border of Macedonia and Albania. Highlights of the trip include an apple festival, Eco-trail in Dardha, amazing wedding dress stores (rentable), meals with course after course if amazing Albanian cuisine, and a beautiful hotel. However, in this picturesc corner of the county, I think my favorite thing was the traditional roofs! ( I think Little Elephants favorites were the apples and the way her stroller bounced on the cobblestone streets).

Little known secret

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I am about to let you in on a little known secret.  Or, at least, it was little known to me before last week.

Not all Venetian Carnival Masks are made in Venice! In fact, many are not even made in Italy.  They are made, to order, right here in Albania!

Fine. My secret was not life changing. Not was my trip to the mask factory in skoder.  However, it was really really fun.

See?

Of course, after this trip (1) I own a mask and (2) I really want to go to Venice.

Fun facts from Wikipedia:

  • The mascherari (or mask-makers) had their own statute dated 10 April 1436. They belonged to the fringe of painters and were helped in their task by sign-painters who drew faces onto plaster in a range of different shapes and paying extreme attention to detail.
  • Venetian masks can be made in leather, porcelain or with the original glass technique. The original masks were rather simple in design, decoration, and often had a symbolic and practical function. Nowadays, most of them are made with the application of gesso and gold leaf and are all hand-painted using natural feathers and gems to decorate.
  • There is very little evidence explaining the motive for the earliest mask wearing in Venice. One scholar argues that covering the face in public was a uniquely Venetian response to one of the most rigid class hierarchies in European history.
  • A law in 1339 forbade Venetians from wearing vulgar disguises and visiting nun’s convents while masked.
  • Today, approximately 3 million visitors come to Venice every year for Carnivals.

 

The real Kazakhstan

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Yurts, originally uploaded by The Voice Of Objective Truth.

I tend to complain that people only get to know the major cities of a place and not really see the history and the beauty (and the poverty) that lay outside of major cities. In Kazakhstan, I regret not having more photos from the country side, from the steppe, of traditional Kazakhstan. I didn’t get to travel enough and when I did, I rarely got to stop for pictures. To make up for this (a little) I am sharing a photo I found on flickr of the traditional houses (yurts).

A yurt is a portable, bent wood-framed dwelling structure traditionally used by Turkic nomads in the steppes of Central Asia. The structure comprises a crown or compression wheel (tüýnük) usually steam bent, supported by roof ribs which are bent down at the end where they meet the lattice wall (again steam bent). The top of the wall is prevented from spreading by means of a tension band which opposes the force of the roof ribs. The structure is usually covered by layers of fabric and sheep’s wool felt for insulation and weatherproofing.

The similar Mongolic nomadic structure the ger is often wrongly referred to by westerners as a yurt but differs in that the heavier roof wheel (toono) is supported on posts and the roof ribs are straight rather than bending down at the wall junction. The wall lattice of a ger is constructed of straight pieces as opposed to the yurt’s curved lattice .

Monthaversary 10 & 11: Mango baby takes a tumble

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Dear Little Elephant,

You are your own person, clearly full of ideas, opinions, and jokes that you want to tell us.  You are so communicative despite having no language.  You say “Mama” when talking about me.  Last week, you knew I was asleep upstairs and your Abue (Grandma) was walking you up and down the hall downstairs.  Each time you past the staircase you would point at it and say “MAMA”, demanding to be brought to me.  It was an argument, but you won and my nap lost.  You also say “Maaa Maaaa Maaaa Maaaa” when you want us to feed you more.  This is particularly true when you are getting to taste some new treat off the dinner table.  You say “Mamamamamamamaa” to refer to mangos in any form.  You say “Mama” to refer to Dada sometimes; although, you appear to also be learning both “Dada” and “Papa”.  You should have them in the next month.

Have I mentioned how much you love mangos? You discovered them while in Thailand and will eat them in any form.  You drink mango smoothies, either straight or with other fruits or vegetables (such as passion fruit, cucumber, carrot, berries, melon, watermelon and more).  You also eat them mushed or cut into small pieces.  Once, you father let you attack one whole!  He peeled it and held it in his hands. You threw your entire body, wide open mouth first, into the mango and took huge bites. You ate the whole thing yourself. You are a very happy mango baby.  Sticky too.

Studies say that children who grow up in bilingual households often speak later than their peers.  Studies also show that by kindergarten bilingual children have caught up to their peers in BOTH languages.  While our multi-language house and lifestyle might be slowing you down—your desire to communicate, I am sure, will speed things up.

These last two months have sadly taught you that the world is not as soft as you thought.   When you first started moving, Mama or Dada were always there to catch you.  Now that you are faster (and walking without our hands), you have clunked your head a few times. I know that everyone tells me that accidents happen and that toddlers fall.  I know that as soon as you were distracted or nursing, you would stop crying. I know that the tears were more fright than pain.  I know that you don’t remember any of this.  But, I do.  It kills me to watch the crocodile tears fall.  To wish I could have moved faster or been in a different place.  I have no idea what I am going to feel when you get an actual bruise!

There have been some other major changes.  We have left Kazakhstan.  Of course, to make things interesting, you got sick as the movers were packing up our stuff.  Dada called from T-Raz’s house, where you and he had taken refuge, to ask if I had a thermometer or meds.  Sadly, we had not set them aside and the movers had already packed that area.  The night before we had no idea you would be getting ill.  You spiked a fever over 103.  Boy did we worry.  And we tried to love the sick out of you.  And we tried to medicine the sick out of you.  And, in the end, the fever broke 5 days later just as we were about to board the plane.

Speaking of plane rides— you have been a rock star.  In the past two months you have flown from:

  • Thailand to Kazakhstan
  • Kazakhstan to Holland
  • Holland to USA
  • USA to Chile

Basically, you have crossed the entire globe.  On every single flight, you were complimented by the flight attendants for what a wonderful baby you are.  You slept. You played. You cooed at everyone in sight.  You rarely cried.  You nursed.  And, you let Mama get some sleep.  We joked after the flight to Chile, that it might have been my best night of sleep in months.

Leaving Kazakhstan, we had to say goodbye to a lot of people who love you.  Uncle Dennis refused to say goodbye.  Auntie Anya writes almost everyday and is planning to visit in July (See, Ann, it is official because it is on my blog), Uncle Jimi Jimi and T-Raz miss you too.  As does my office and our local friends.  I hope that many of them will stay a part of your life and continue to watch you grow.

On one side of your nose, you grew five tiny little white heads that formed a perfect pentagon.  I know! How could white heads be cute??? I am sure that in your teens, they will be the bane of your existence—along with pimples.  I am sorry for that.  I hope, for your sake, that it is a malady you only suffer in your teens.  Not in your 30s, like Mama, or in your 60s, like Grandpa.  Still, the pentagon was endearing.  Your Dada’s desire to rid you of it was less so.

The last two months, you have gotten to sample a HUGE variety of new food.  Much of this is thanks to some much needed spoiling by your grandparents.  While not all foods will be repeated for a while, the list includes: artichokes (a huge hit, a personal favorite of Mama, and very hard to eat with two tiny teeth), sugar, frozen yogurt, cheese, manjar, prickly pear, melon pear, cheese, pastel de choclo, many types of beans and much more!  Yum! You are a great eater despite being skinny and in the lower 1/3 of average baby weight for your age.

Playing, you pretend to answer the phone.  If people let you, you will take their cell phone away, hold it to your ear, and babble to your heart’s content.  You also are learning to throw things.  You have a good pitching arm, both left and right! Still, above things, you prefer people.  And above people, you prefer Mama.  And above all else, your Mama loves you.

Next month, my little researcher, you will be one year old.  I have loved every minute exploring the world with you and can’t wait for all that is to come.

Hugs and kisses forever and ever,

Mama

Time

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Cerro Polanco, originally uploaded by coming2cambodia.

The hardest thing about visiting home is never having the time to see everyone I love or visit the places I miss. For example, for a second time, I don’t think I will make it to Valpo or Vina. With Little Elephant around, we are mostly homebodies staying with the in-laws. It is wonderful…. but there are so many others I wish I had the time to see.

My Seven Travel Truths

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Call me a copycat.  I am fine with that.

But Kyle is one too.

So, Kyle wrote a blog about her 7 travel truths which I fully enjoyed reading.  She wrote it after reading a blog written by Oneika about her 7 travel truths.  I think that Oneika was the original.

According to a silly app I found on line, I have visited 14% of the world. I only counted countries I have spent some time in— it would be more if I counted countries where I only know the airport!  I have also lived for longer periods of time in Chile, Moldova, Kazakhstan and Cambodia.  I have traveled for both work and for pleasure, stayed in 5 star hotels and the nastiest of hostels.  I have flown first class and hitch hiked (sorry Mom and Dad).  So, I have a few opinions about travel and, of course, my own pet peeves.

1. I will always spend more on food then on lodging.

Yes, I like clean showers and to have my own bathroom.  I also like fancy robes and pools.   However, I like good food even more.  I love to eat and try things local— even fried grasshoppers stuffed with peanuts and noodles with horse meat.  I also love good food or food that reminds me of home.  If I can take a cooking class, even better.  I did one in Cambodia and it was a great travel experience. Below is a picture of me learning to make traditional foods in Moldova.

2. I would rather get to know a place then see everything.

Yes, I like traveling. I like setting off to see the world.  Even more though, I like living abroad. I like being in a place so long that I get past the honeymoon phase and can see its flaws.  I enjoy getting to know local people and how they spend their time– it doesn’t have to be fancy, just real.  I love to go to outdoor markets, both food and artisan both abroad and in the states.  I think these markets say a lot about a country. When I was in Moldova, I spent days with my neighbors to understand their lives. I learned to harvest walnuts and plant cabbages.  I learned to can vegetables and make juice.  When I lived in Cambodia, I went with my language teacher to her home village for a celebration where we washed  her parents.

3. I am working on improving my planning skills. I swear. I am.

While my husband won’t believe this as he finds my obsession with lists hysterical, I am working on being a better planner when it comes to travel. I used to just buy a ticket and go.  I figured once I arrived, I would figure things out: lodging, food, language, places to visit.  Often, this worked well.  I was never disappointed I missed someplace I really wanted to see– after all, I didn’t know it was there to miss. I usually found someplace to stay that was reasonably affordable and clean.  However, after an unfortunate experience on an overnight train with no seats and men peeing in the cabin, I started to rethink my traveling logic.

Now, I like to plan things— at least with a general idea of what is available, when things will be open, how much things will cost, and a map of the metro (if pertinent).  I abhor trains (see above link) and am careful to plan planes so that I don’t have to dart across town or spent 6 hours idle in transit.  I don’t plan out every second, but I like to know my options.

4. I pretend to scoff at people who insist on wearing make-up and staying in 5 star hotels, but I secretly love the luxury of those hotels.

I love to think of myself as some granola chick who can slap on a backpack, stick out her thumb and slum it with the best of them.  Admittedly, I have been there.  Granted, I have moved on now.  I do enjoy staying places with a comfortable bed and a good pool.  I, however, hate to pay for those places.  Luckily, my job sends me traveling and priceline exists.  I admit that I can become obsessed with the game: what is the best deal I can get??? With our newest family member in tow, I think that we will be even more discriminating about where we stay and how many times we switch hotels during a visit to a country.

5. I forget stuff.

It is true. I can forget places I have been. I never know what the restaurant/hotel/beach’s name is.  I can’t tell you how to get there.  I can tell you if I loved it or not.   Because I forget things, I like to take pictures. While people do laugh at the camera carrying tourist– which I am– I also look back at my photos.  I love spending an afternoon looking at old photos and places I have been.  This obsession with photos is despised by my husband who refuses to have his picture taken.  Sadly, because of his hate for cameras and eye rolling, I take less pictures.  So many more things will simply be forgotten from now on.

6. I never pay for guides.

I hate the idea of paying for a guide for things, particularly the headphone audio guides. I do like it, however, when other people pay for real people guides.  Because I speak several languages and dabble in a few more, I do love to stand near guided tours and see what I can pick up.  This is particularly fun when the tour is in Russian, Romanian, or Japanese.

7. I hate carrying things.

I do love rolling suitcases. In fact, I LOVE my new swivel suitcase.  I can roll it in every direction possible and I don’t even have to tilt it and feel any weight.  My dislike for carrying suitcases (and backpacks) makes me pack light.  Sometimes, it means I don’t have the correct clothing for all situations.  While in Lithuania (in August), I was freezing and ended up buying this pink sweater. Later in the trip, I wore the sweater in Prague (pictured below).

I also rarely pack makeup, heals, dresses, dress up clothes, or appropriate shoes. If possible, I prefer to do all traveling in flip flops or tennis shoes. Yes, I know that makes me look like a stupid, American tourist… but I am an American tourist (hopefully not stupid too often).  Plus, the shoes match the camera, which I mentioned above. I have embraced this and moved on.

Cultural Expereinces and Personal Taste

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We took our little girl to Chicago last week so that we could do some paperwork at the Chilean Consulate. Since we were making the trip, we decided to stay overnight and see a bit of the city. We were also hoping to see a friend who lives there, but sadly, she was on vacation.

One of the major things we did was visit the Art Institute of Chicago.  We decided to focus our visit on the Impressionists and since Little E has been staring at art work when we pass it, we hope at 6 weeks old she might see something she liked.  Of course, they have an amazing collection, so everyone had favorites.

For some reason, I was just very drawn to The Song of the Lark by Jules-Adolphe Breton:

S couldn’t decide which was his favorite.  How could he?? We saw Monet, Renoir, Degas and Van Gogh.  When pressed, he said we really liked The Girl by the Window by Edvard Munch, who he did not earlier know:

Our little girl, who unfortunately (or perhaps fortonately) slept for most of the visit, did also have a clear favorite:

Yep. She liked the ceiling lights and patterns.

We need Star Trek technology

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The Colbert Nation had a funny piece a while back about the world before 9/11.  The part of it that I remember several weeks later, was a commentary about how it used to be a pleasure to fly.  Colbert says: “They (meaning teenagers and college kids) have no idea what it was like before the national security state. Let me explain.  Before Bin Laden came along it was possible to get on a plane with an adult size bottle of shampoo, without have your scrotum cupped by an embarrassed man with a clip-on tie…”

Yes, the pleasure of flying has gone down and the hassle has gone up.  Along with this trend, I have raked in more and more frequent flier miles as my jobs have progressively had me flying across continents more frequently.  Really, I shouldn’t complain.  I wanted my job and I love all the cultures I am getting to know.  Still… sometimes I dread flying.

I dread flying even more when flying with my dog and my husband!  My dog hates flying and is stuck in a little bag at my feet.  She can’t go to the bathroom. I am always really nervous for her. We have to get special vet papers– which include the dreaded trip to the vet.  And I have to pay extra to have here and, therefore, no leg room.  Still, I couldn’t leave her behind.  My husband also hates flying.  He is stuck in a small seat, bored, with (usually) bad food that (often) makes him ill. Also, he does not sleep as easily on a plane as I (usually) do. I was particularly dreading this flight as flying at 34 weeks pregnant just means not fitting in the seats, having to use the bathroom more often, and reduced ability to get comfortable or sleep.

That said, despite all the complications, I think all three of us were excited to be coming home to Wisconsin for several months.  Not just because we were flying for the birth of our first child, but also because Wisconsin has wonderful cheese and beer (husband only this time).

Actually, the flights started off pretty well– despite the check in agent in Almaty taking almost 30 minutes to check us in.  She did not speak English and therefore could not read the note from the doctor about my health status.  She did not know how to check in a pet.  She didn’t know what to do with the wheelchair request for Germany and the US for me.  I was concerned about how tired I would be and how quickly I could make it through the large airports of Frankfurt and Chicago. She was confused by our luggage— in the end, she put a priority tag on two pieces of luggage since I was pregnant but would not put one on my husband’s luggage.  What is the point of this??? I still have to wait for him to get his luggage. Despite all this, she managed to get us a full center row to ourselves.

In Germany, we were met by a very sweet man who wheeled us over to the next gate.  Good thing– we most certainly would have gotten lost and the gate was quite far away!  He even tried to help carry Harley while S took out the computer and I had been herded somewhere else since they said I couldn’t go through the scanner because of the baby.  Anyone who knows Harley knows this didn’t go well!

When we arrived in Chicago, our plane was delayed circling in the air.  Luckily, because of the wheelchair, we made it through customs in record time.  My two priority bags came out immediately, S’s followed a while later.  We still had enough time to get to our connecting flight to Milwaukee— however, the airlines refused to take our bags since they were not the requisite 45 minutes ahead of schedule. Apparently, since our bags couldn’t fly with us, we were not allowed to fly.  As if I could have tampered with a bag that had been through customs and TSA scans.

Exhausted, after 25+ hours of flights and airports, with a dog in tow, at 34 weeks pregnant, I was told that they could not put us onto a flight until the next morning.  We were offered a bus– which would never have worked with the dog and the bladder.  Beyond poor customer service, I felt like sitting on the floor and crying.

In comes Dad to the rescue!  My father drove 1.5 hours to Chicago to pick us up and take me home.  Happily, we did arrive in Milwaukee.  Two weeks and one angry email later, I do feel better about the whole experience.  I communicated with the airlines who apologized for the treatment we received, recognized that I was put in a very uncomfortable situation, and gifted us quite a few miles to make it up.

Best of all, we are in Wisconsin— which— as I already mentioned— has amazing cheese and beer (for the husband) as well as family and friends.